RGB to Component Case for Sale $15 (plus shipping)

As a follow-up to an earlier post:

http://www.3dprintmd.com/print/printed-case-for-vga-to-component/

A friend posted comments in a forum that he frequents asking if anyone is interested in a case that we designed to hold a Analog RGB to component adapter that he has (http://tulip-house.ddo.jp/digital/ANALOG_RGB_COMPONENT/english.html) and at least one person has bought one.  This prompted me to do some updates to the design to make it better.  We decided to charge $15 (plus shipping) for your choice of colors that I currently have on hand (Clear (natural), Green, Yellow, Translucent Blue, Orange, Red).

Until I find a better method, post a comment here if you are interested.  Now available on my store http://www.3dprintmd.com/print/3d-printed-items-for-sale/.  Here are some pictures of the slightly updated design this one is in translucent blue.

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3D Printing Service Open for Business http://www.makexyz.com/printer/michael_mcco

I have some excellent news I would like to share.  When I started this blog my intent was to share my 3D printer and printing experiences and I am happy to announce that the sharing of the printer has started.  I saw an article on http://www.3ders.org/ for http://www.makexyz.com/ which is a service where you can list your printer so that people can search their local area for people with a 3D printer that is willing to print objects for a marginal fee. So I listed my printer:

http://www.makexyz.com/printer/michael_mcco

This past weekend I got and completed my first job from this site.  It was quite easy to use and only required minimal effort.  Here is how it works.  The user goes to the http://www.makexyz.com/ site and searches their area for a 3D printer.  They then upload a STL file to the site and select the color print and quality.  The invoice is then sent to the printer (me) to accept the order.  The order is charged by the cubic cm (I have my Makerbot 2 listed at $.25/cm³) and I can accept it as is or modify the invoice and send it back.  In this case the print needed support material so I had to slightly modify the price to account for this.  I send back the invoice; the user accepts it and I print it.  The user has the choice to have it shipped or they can ask for a pickup.

Hopefully this will make sharing my printer with people around me even easier.  Here is the first job as it was printing:

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Printed case for RGB to Component

A friend and I designed and printed a case for a Analog RGB Component Adapter for Apple II GS (http://tulip-house.ddo.jp/digital/english.html).  This is the second thing the I have done from scratch and this one turned out great.

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Side shot. A stiffening spline is needed on the underside of the top piece.
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near perfect for the cable.
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Just square holes here. Could get fancy and make round holes in the future.

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note: Stiffing spline added
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Quick Update – Filastruder KickStarter

I just wanted to post a quick update on an interesting development.  I backed a kickstarter project http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/833191773/filastruder-a-robust-inexpensive-filament-extruder that extrudes 3dprinter filament from bulk material. The advantage to this is that it makes the filament for 1/6th the costs of what vendors are currently selling it for.  It also gives the added advantage that custom colors are possible.  I backed a fully assembled model since at the time the kits were sold out (they since added more kits).  Simple calculations are as follows $300 filament extruder $5/kg PLA pellets (est.) and $30/kg for premade. This makes the extruder pay off after only 10kg of filament.  That seems like a great deal! Ok, yeah, yeah that does not include the price of electricity and what not but it does make it really cheap.  Even if it takes 15kg to pay it off its still worth the price.  Here are some pictures I swiped from the kick starter site of the prototypes:

Filastruder prototypes

Filastruder prototypes

3D Printed Case for the TrH Meter – Update 1

I am happy to report success with creating a 3D Printed Case for the TrH Meter from previous posts.  This is the first 3D object that I made from scratch!  I published it on the Thingiverse http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:62990.  I must say that once I watched the Ben Heckendorn video the design became really easy.  I highly recommend the video http://i.materialise.com/blog/entry/tips-and-tricks-by-ben-heck-how-to-use-autodesk-123d-design if you want to do a box similar.  My total design time was about 4 hours and the print took 2 hours (top and bottom).

I did also design another case/box for a friends electronics project (maybe another post on that one too) and that only took about 2hrs.  I suspect the next one will be even faster.

Here is a screenshot of my base.  This is all the dimensions of all the features of the box.  Think of this as a 3D object that is squished and flattened into a 2D object.  Make sure that you save this off because you will need it again for the bottom.  If you find you need to make changes it’s a good idea to save off back to the base so that you are working off the same file for the top and bottom.

2DBase

The drawing is relatively easy to do using the Sketch (2D) menu.  This is just a series of squares lines and circles

For clarity I thought I would point out some of the features of this base.  There is an “air” space between the PCB and the walls of the box I have highlighted them here:

AirSpaceBorder

Highlighted here are the outer wall that will extruded up to make the sides of the box

OuterEdges

The holes in the middle are for the reset button and for the light sensor.  The 7 seg displays will dim when it’s dark so you are not blinded by them.

Step two is to start the extrusion.  You need to extrude common components together.  This does take a bit of thought since you can only extrude a part once (which is no big deal).

Here I am extruding the underside of the PCB

BottomExtrude-1

And here is the result.  It’s difficult to see but this is a 3D of the base that is .05 inch tall

BottomExtrude-1a

The next step is extruding the sides of the box.  Notice that I do NOT have select two pieces on the side as those are the bottom part of the holes for the power and serial connection which I want to be a different height.

BottomExtrude-2

Now it’s starting to look like a box

BottomExtrude-2b

And finally with the pieces under the holes extruded.

BottomExtrude-3a

We can we can send this to the printer by selecting everything and exporting it to .stl.  And while that’s printing we can move on to the top.

Start again from the base, this time we are going to extrude in the negative (-) direction.  Essentially extruding down towards the bottom (which extruded up towards the top).
Here is a shot of my first print where I forgot to extrude down.  You can see that the protrusions are sticking up from the box.  Oops.

oops extruded in the wrong direction

Here is first extrude

TopExtrude-1

Next is a small area that encloses off the temperature and humidity sensor from the other components and leaves it open to the front from measurement. Remember when entering the extrude dimension to add the first extrusion to the distance you actually want it to protrude.  For example my top most piece is .05 inc thick and I want the protrusion to stick down .5 inch you need to extrude to .505 to get the correct depth.

TopExtrude-2

Next I extrude the holes that surround the reset button and the light sensor (that dims the 7 seg displays when it’s dark)

TopExtrude-3

Then finally the top part of the hole to make the serial connection just a small sliver of a hole on the side of the box.

TopExtrude-4

Now we need to move the thing back to the ground plane.  To do this select the whole thing and click move.  Grab the up arrow on the movement directional and drag up. This will allow you to type the number in.  This number is the maximum amount you extruded into the negative.  In my case it was .505.

TopMoveUp

Then we need to rotate the thing 180deg for printing.  Select the whole thing again and click move.  This time grab the circle above the up arrow and rotate it.  Again the box will appear to allow you to type 180 deg.

TopRotate

Sweet! Hopefully by now the bottom is done printing (mine took 1h 23 min).  Peal that thing off and send the top to the printer.

Here is the correctly printed top

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And here is bonus mistake again on the top.  I forgot to leave out the hole above the humidity sensor.

oops 2

The top printed in 37 mins.

Here are some pick of it printing and the final product.  Don’t forget to post it out on the Thingiverse.

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More posts comming soon

I just realized that it’s been quite a while since I posted here.  More post are coming soon.  I have been doing some interesting things since my last post here are things that are coming soon.

Capital News Paper

I have been contacted by a reporter from the local news paper.  He wants to do a story on 3D printing which I think is fantastic.  Hopefully I can provide some insight in to how to get started with 3D printing.  This is all still preliminary since I have no idea on what to expect out of this.  More information as soon as I get it.

3D Printed Case for the TrH Meter

I have been trying to design a case from scratch and I have had little success.  I have tried quite a few 3D design tools and none of them live up to my expectations.  A friend recently send me a link to yet  another Ben Heckendorn video where he creates a raspberry pi case http://i.materialise.com/blog/entry/tips-and-tricks-by-ben-heck-how-to-use-autodesk-123d-design after watching this I got some ideas on how to use Autodesk 123D in a different way than I was using before (using the extrude method).  I will post a full tutorial on the creation process once I am done.

PCB Etching

I have been working with a friend to etch a PCB using the toner transfer method.  This is our first PCB that we have etched from scratch so it’s taking a bit longer than I expected.  Our first attempt did not meet our expectations and we decided to regroup and get better equipped.  As soon as we try again (maybe this weekend) I will post our results.  Here is the PCB we chose: http://vonkonow.com/wordpress/2012/10/nanino-the-diy-friendly-arduino/.  We did modify the schematic some.  We added back the voltage regulator and resided some of the holes for easier drilling.

Simple Robot

I have done a bit more work on my mapping robot (that I have been almost never working on for over the last 10 years).  I added finally added the dual serial motor controller that I bought last year.  I make no promises on this project as at this point it has an estimated completion time of NEVER (+/- 5 years).

Split an STL from the Thingiverse into multiple objects

It should not be this hard to find the answer to a simple problem.

So I printed Tiny Planetary Gears Set http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23030 and during assembly I broke one of the pieces.  The beauty of a 3dprinter is I can just print another one right? Right! Well with a snag.  Things from the http://www.thingiverse.com come in .stl format which is a final solid object even though most of the files out there are multiple object put together for convenience.   So I just wanted to print one part out of many:

This is how the .stl file looks from the Thingiverse

Origional STL

Origional STL

But I want just one piece from this not the whole thing.  This seem deceptively simple but praying to the google gods, it was a hard won solution and that is why I am sharing.

First of all go download and install http://www.netfabb.com/download.php it has a free (basic) version that will do just fine.

    1. Open the .stl by going to Project->Add Part
    2. Browse to the file an click open Imported in Netfab Studio
    3. Now on the right side of the screen you will see cuts configuration.  Start by slicing in the X direction using the slider bar for X.   Pay close attention to the red intersects that appear as you move the slider. Pay attention to the red intersections
    4. Select a spot that has no intersections and click Execute cut.
    5. Then click Cut
  1. Now notice that you can expand Parts in the context area and select the individual halves you just made.

    Select the new object

    Select the new object

  2. I want to slice again to get just one of these items so I am going to use the Y slider to split it again.
  3. Move the Y slider so there are no intersections then click Execute Cut and then Cut.
  4. Now I can select just the one part I want.

    Now I have just the part I want

    Now I have just the part I want

  5. Ok great! Now lets print it.  Right click on the part and select Export part->as STL

    Export it

    Export it

  6. Give it a name and click save
  7. Now we can open it with MakerWare and print it.

    Let print it

    Let print it

That wasn’t so hard after all why did it take so long to find the answer?  Who knows?  Hopefully this saves someone the several hours (and downloading several programs) it took me looking for the answer.

More Printing

I have been printing more (after work).  I updated the MakerWare Version 1.1.0 (http://www.makerbot.com/makerware/) and the MakerBot to firmware 7.0.  The firmware has an updated slicing engine which my first impressions it appears be over all more efficient as they claim.  It is certianly much faster at slicing.  I did not time how long it took before but now its almost instant.  Previous to this release the printer for swing back and forth between multiple objects on the when printing.  Now it will stay on one object and print an entire layer of the object before moving on to print and entire layer on the other object.  It does seem to print a bit slower on the outer layers of the objects.  I am not sure that I can recall if it did this with the previous layers or not.  I would assume that it is printing in finer detail on the outter layers so this is definately a good thing.

Here are some more things that I have printed:

Raspberry pi case 1h 35min (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24945).  I decided to change filiment color this is called Icicle Blue http://store.makerbot.com/filament#pla. It warped away from the build platform for some reason. But it turned out ok anyway. Not sure if it was the new filament that did not stick quite as well or what. More printing with this filament might reveal the answer.

Pi case - With Pi

Pi case – With Pi

Pi case - With Pi

Pi case – With Pi

Pi case - With Pi

Pi case – With Pi

Pi case - Top and Bottom

Pi case – Top and Bottom

Pi case - Assembled

Pi case – Assembled

Arduino Case http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:20739 to protect the Uno http://arduino.cc/en/Main/arduinoBoardUno

Arduino Case Top And Bottom - Assembled

Arduino Case Top And Bottom – Assembled

Arduino Case with Arduino Uno inside

Arduino Case with Arduino Uno inside

Tweezers http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25587 and Nautilus Gears http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:27233. I printed some mechanical things to see how the printer does. The Tweezers work well. The points don’t quite stay lined up as well as I would like though but are useful for soldering SMDs. The gears work just ok they don’t really snap together as well as I would like but I am sure that a dab of glue will solve the problem to hold them together better.

Gears and Tweezers

Gears and Tweezers

Plastic Spring thing http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:39963.  Wanted to see what happens when the printer needed to bridge a gap with plastic. You can see that the outer edges have plastic that spans a good 3/8 inch. The detail is lost in my crummy
photos but you can see that it did impressively well spanning with no support.

Plastic Spring

Plastic Spring

Plastic Spring

Plastic Spring

Plastic Spring

Plastic Spring

New Printer Has Arrived!

Printer is here

Printer is here

Very exciting! The unpacking was easy and I think it’s a bit over kill to have the details that the instructions do for just unboxing the printer. 2013-01-07_17-26-52_286 2013-01-07_17-25-56_869 2013-01-07_17-19-35_75 2013-01-07_17-29-37_317

Once it was unboxed leveling the build platform is quite easy and quick. Easiest of all the setup is feeding the filament in.  Initially when I select to read from the SD card to do a test print I got a SD read error even after reseating it.  I popped in my PC and it read fine then back in the printer and it read fine as well.  Odd but I’ll call it a fluke.  First print was one of the examples on the card and it came out quite nice and had no issue.

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first print

first print

Next I went to the fantastic Thingiverse to print this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:38712. Probably not the best choice for my second print though.  I think I got a bit over zealous and tried to print the whole thing all at once.

cube gears

Shortly after the start the pins popped off the platform one by one and I canceled the print.  After trying again with the same result I separated the pieces out printing the main parts first. This took quite longer than I expected. It too about 4.5 hours using the recommended setting of the author.

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Once that was done (finally) I could focus again on the pins and center.  I tried tweaking the shells and infill settings and it failed again.  Then I actually looked up what you are supposed to do and quickly found the raft check box which easily solved the problem.

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failed print scraps:

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Some interesting things about the printer that I did not expect:  It plays a satisfying tune when it is getting ready to print and completed printing.  The lighting on the inside changes colors when the head is heating indicating the tempature.

Color changing on heatup

Color changing on heatup

Color changing on heatup

Color changing on heatup

All in all it’s fantastic to see object emerge from this thing.  More post to come…

MakerBot Replicator 2 Shipped

W00t! I got a notification that my new printer has shipped. I ordered it on Nov 13 and received the tracking numbers on Dec 31st. FedEx does not have a status change that they received it yet and it says the estimated delivery is today January 2. That would make it 6 weeks 6 days considering that when I ordered they said the lead time was 8 weeks.
Just like me people are really excited to get the printer. Here is a thread on how long it is taking people to get their printer: http://groups.google.com/group/makerbot/browse_thread/thread/b3427ad059f9c23a/459436af7f6cd1f1